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Cours de tissage 1912
- Bâti d'un métier
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- Mécanique 104 Jacquard
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The main regulator systems for looms used in the Lyon region are the Sapin, Bénistant and Pignet systems.
The regulator is controlled either by the Jacquard mechanism placed on the loom or by walking and generally by means of a cavalette which communicates an upward and downward movement to the control lever of the regulator. This lever carries a dog or ratchet which has each movement advancing one or more teeth with a ratchet driving a small pinion mounted on the same axis.
This pinion drives an intermediate wheel on which is located a second pinion meshing with the large wheel fixed at the end of the roll of cloth.
With each movement of the control lever the ratchet is stopped by 1 or 2 large ratchets thus avoiding the return back.
The regulators are of different systems. The shape of the frame changes a little depending on the manufacturer but their principle is always the same. They are essentially composed of a series of pinions and toothed wheels reducing the drive of the roller in an infinitely small movement which must correspond with the reduction of the weft of the fabric.
In the hand looms, the majority of the fabrics wind up as the weaving proceeds on the roller itself which gives the drive. This causes a live winding.
Certain kinds of fabrics, such as velvet, for example, must not be wound taut so that the effects of the hair chain are not crushed. The fabric is then driven by an emeralized and stitched roller, ie armed with small needles that penetrate into the fabric on the reverse side.
At other times, in the plain velvet, especially iron-cut, special rollers are used, called "boxes," to avoid the piercing of augillas, which always leave traces more or less apparent on the fabric.
Whatever the mode of winding and winding of the fabric, the roller is always controlled by a regulator.
The regulator
During the weaving, as the weft strokes succeed one another and collapse under the action of the pushing comb and joining the last weft stroke passed against the previous weft, the fabric automatically wraps on a roller whose rotational movement Is given by an apparatus referred to as a regulator.
Practical hand weaving course
Lyon Municipal Weaving SchoolProfessor A.CREPT - Year 1912-1913
The handwritten course has been copied by us.This hand weaving course on looms was used until the 1980s.
