Definitions

Definitions
Here are some basic definitions that you need to know to address the rest of our study:
United or Armored Fabrics: The so-called united or armored fabrics are in fact all fabrics made on a loom which comprises only frames. When one of the frames raises, it raises all the threads which are passed in the meshes (smooth) that it comprises. So we can not do anything other than lift a set of threads at the same time. We can weave with only 2 frames, but in this case, only half of the threads can be lifted together. With only two different layers of yarns, it is only possible to make canvas (a thread on it, a thread underneath, or one taken, one left).
Thus, to produce a more consistent effect or pattern, the number of frames is multiplied, which increases the possibilities of patterns. The beginners often work with 4 frames, which already gives a good number of possibilities of decoration or variants. The more frames are used, the more possibilities there are.
There is, however, a limit in the number of frames that can be used. This limit is generally estimated at 24 or 32. Beyond this, one can expect all sorts of difficulties and it will be difficult to realize properly a plain or armored fabric. This naming of plain fabric does not mean that the fabric is devoid of decoration or pattern ...
A plain or armored fabric may be without decoration or decor. In the latter case, even with a very large number of frames, the pattern can only be simple and geometric. It will not be possible to represent a galloping horse on a sunset at the seashore, for example.
Fabrics Shaped: To represent our horse at a gallop on a sunset at the seaside, we would need, given the number of details of this figurative motif, to choose precisely the yarns that we must lift for Follow the contours and represent the details of such a design. It is therefore necessary that we have at our disposal, on our loom a system which allows us to control the lifting of the threads individually ...
Shaped mechanics: It is the mechanics of shaping that will allow us to control at will and individually the lifting of our threads, according to the needs of the drawing to be realized. The first of these was invented by Joseph-Marie Jacquard of Lyons in 1804. It was inspired by previous inventions, but it was his automatic machine which allowed the textile industry to make a leap forward. We will study these mechanics in this section, always assuming that you are completely novice. In the meantime, if you are curious, there are several studies of this mechanics, elsewhere, on this site ...
Mechanics Jacquard, Vincenzi, Verdol: Jacquard mechanics was the first invention (1804). This mechanism is almost entirely made of wood (walnut) and has a number of metal parts. It was imitated and perfected by other manufacturers. Thus, the Vincenzi mechanics was entirely made of metal, which made it possible to make it work a little faster thanks to adjustments renderedmore precise. In addition, it used smaller cartons, less thick and less heavy, and therefore more economical.
Then came the Verdol mechanic, built by a Lyon builder, towards the end of the 19th century.It brings considerable improvements compared to previous ones. The interwoven cartons are replaced by a strip of continuous paper, still less heavy and less expensive, which removes more cartoning from the cartons with each other.As an indication, 1000 cartons weigh 53 kg in Jacquard, 15 kg in Vincenzi and only a little more than 2 kg in Verdol!
Since then, the mechanics have been perfected and modernized by different manufacturers, always bearing this original name of Jacquard mechanics, although they have less and less in common with it.
Today we are at the time of computing, and the mechanics also fashioned. Manufacturers use "electronic jacquards" (My God, which barbarism) that no longer use cardboard or punched paper. The drawings are entirely made using computer software and the hooks of the Jacquard mechanics (which control the individual lifting of the wires) are controlled directly by a computer ...

We shall not say more here about these mechanics of fashion, for we shall return to them in detail in the remainder of our study.