Le métier de Façonné


The loom therefore has different characteristics of the weaving loom.
As we have seen, the essential difference is that it is equipped with a fashioned mechanics, Jacquard, Verdol or Vincenzi. (We only deal on this site with old crafts, manual or mechanical, prior to the 1950s, that is to say looms using a shuttle, manual or mechanical, whatever, only the driving force differs, Execution remaining similar).
In the hand looms, the same loom is used. Only the equipment of which it is equipped differs ... In general, for different fabrics, it will be equipped with a different equipment.
You may know the Scandinavian craft looms. There are still manufacturers of these trades in Sweden, Finland, Norway, Switzerland, Canada and the United States. Because in all these countries there is a domestic tradition of weaving, unlike France where knitting, coud, embroid ... but do not weave by tradition. These trades that you may have used are generally very basic if compared with the old professional trades. Indeed, they lack elements very important to our eyes for who has either constraints of profitability, or desires to make delicate fabrics or use very fine materials, such as silk.
The explanation of these shortcomings is precisely that they are marketed to amateurs who, having no production or profitability requirements are not ready to bear the significant additional costs of these elements which are lacking. Moreover, being beginners, they generally use threads of large thickness not exceeding usually 12 or 24 threads / cm.In this case, it is quite clear that they can easily do without these elements.
What is generally lacking in these trades are:
The absence of regulator. The regulator is a system made up of different gears that allows to have an automatic winding of the fabric, as it is woven. This advance of the front roller is of course adjustable according to the fabric being executed (number of strokes, or frames to centimeters). Weaving very thin fabrics does not necessitate this apparatus under pain of having numerous irregularities of packing of the wefts, very visible on the fabric.The poor quality of the leaf. A leaf should be completely rigid, in all directions. It should also be heavier than it is on these trades.The poor quality of the shuttle boxes that receive and send the shuttles from one side to the other. They are often brutal and imprecise and it is not uncommon for the shuttle to have a bad trajectory and fall to the ground.The poor quality of the shuttles whose wheels are often imprecise and inert.However, some manufacturers, including the American manufacturer AVL, have apparently well-designed professional models with these elements. They are, of course, much more expensive.